07 August 2007

10 July 2007

Even though I just got back, I've basically forgotten everything that happened in my last week in Ireland. I got home on Friday the 6th, extremely exhausted. No one has asked me about my trip, and it seems strange to me. I guess I thought I would have more to say to people about my trip, but it hasn't come up as much as I expected.
The airline lost one of my bags (the one containing all of the clothing I own) and it is going to take twelve weeks to get money for the stuff they lost. I saw "Once" and it made me homesick for Dublin, if that makes any sense. I loved being able to point out all of the places I'd been to and the streets I'd walked down, only a week before.

Even though it all seems like a blur now, my Ireland experience was one that I will always remember. As I go through my journal, photos, and things I brought back, I remember all of the experiences I had and all of the things I saw while I was there. Being able to study Irish Literature while actually being in Ireland is an incredible thing that I will surely help me in the rest of my career as a student.

29-30 June 2007

So, today (Friday, I think) we get up at 5:30 and walk to the bus station to catch the 7:00 bus to Galway. We ride the bus to some town I don't remember the name of and it takes close to four hours to get there. We change buses and get on one that is going to take us to Doolin, where we are staying for the night. We get on the bus that is packed with tourists and covered in graffiti, and we're at the mercy of the worst driver ever. I'm really sick of riding on buses at this point, but we've still got a while to go before we get to Doolin. We pass another bus on the way and the roads are so small and curved that we almost touch the other bus as we pass. We get to Doolin at about noon and are dropped off at the hostel--which is one of maybe ten buildings in town--despite the fact that the bus is actually going to the Cliffs of Moher, where we plan to go later that day. We walk over to town, which is actually just a few gift shops, a coffee shop, a music store, and a pub, and eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. One thing I definitely miss about home is the peanut butter.


Skippy peanut butter. The glue that holds the world together.

We decide then to hike up to the cliffs, which we think is a short distance, but actually takes forever. The path is basically all up hill, and I am slow and pale and wearing sunblock, and I am not wearing shoes or clothes that are fit to hike in. We meet a man along the way who tells us we have a mile left and everyone is optimistic but at this point I am slightly annoyed because we've already gone several miles. We take a wrong turn, get sidetracked about a mile and have to go back and walk up another hill in the right direction. We finally get to the top and by this point I can feel the sunburn coming on (the one day of sun the entire month and I go on an 18 mile hike without sunblock). There is a sign that everyone ignores that states in English, as well as a couple other languages, that you are not supposed to pass, not to mention a rock wall that you have to climb if you decide to do so.



The view is pretty impressive though.


We hang out at the Cliffs for about an hour or so and then head back to the hostel. When we get back we watch some really bad Irish soap operas, which are actually worse then American soap operas, if that's possible, and with worse acting. We go to dinner at the pub in Doolin and there is a band that playing American rock songs from the seventies. We talk about Jim Croce and how he is totally underrated and the band starts playing a CCR song which is hilarious to me for some reason. We head back to the hostel and I pass out by 8:00 and my sunburn is basically ridiculous at this point.


We get up at 8:00 the next day to go the the ferry, buy our 20 Euro tickets and sit on the rocks because we get there 45 minutes too early.
We get on the ferry which is sketchy and looks like a fishing boat, and I think I'm going to make it without getting sick but everyone is getting up and going to look at the ocean at the back of the boat and everyone is swaying because the water is incredibly choppy. I get up just in time to get to the bathroom before I get sick. From this point on, I have to stand at the back of the ferry with the wind blowing on my face and the ocean water splashing me. We stop at the smallest of the Aran Islands and let some people off, and my shoes are completely soaked. I get sick again on the way to the big island of Inishmore.
We get off the ferry and I have never been happier to be on land in my entire life. We walk around town and everyone we pass asks if we'd like to take a carriage ride around the island. We get lunch and coffee and really have no idea where we want to go, but decide to walk in the opposite direction of the rest of the tourists.
After about an hour of walking we see lots of cool things, but Suzie and I decide to come back to the main part of town and get Coke's at SPAR and sit on a bench for three hours.
There are people racing currachs and we get bored waiting for the rest of the group so we go into every store in the area while we wait.
The island is really beautiful, and there are so many cool things to see, but after the hike to the Cliffs the previous day, I am too tired to do anything noteworthy.

We catch the ferry back to Galway this time and the ride is much smoother. We get off the ferry and have to catch a bus to Galway City and there are tons of people trying to catch the same bus to we have to fight our way on. We get to the bus station in Galway and decide to take the 8:30 bus back to Dublin, which gives us some time to eat dinner before we leave. We end up eating at Supermac's because everywhere else is completely packed. It takes forever to get back to Dublin and our bus stops at every stop along the way, and I fall asleep right before we get back at midnight. We walk back to campus and there are tons of people out because it is Saturday night. This is the most exhausted I've felt in as long as I can remember. I wish I would have seen more of the Aran Islands, and I am glad I went, even though I got really sick and really sunburned.

28 June 2007

I wake up today and go to the computer lab, which I am beginning to feel I spend way too much time in. I have just finished Winterwood by Patrick McCabe, and his books are always incredibly strange, but enjoyable nonetheless. McCabe writes an unreliable and somewhat unstable narrator, which is typical of many of his works.
The main character Redmond Hatch has what he thinks is a normal happy life and initially it seems that his is going to be a good life. He is married, he loves his wife, his daughter is the best thing that has ever happened to him, and though he may not have a best job, he seems to love the work he does. Then, through the use of a series of flashbacks and strange encounters (which could be real or imagined) McCabe takes us into the realm of the strange world of his main characters’ subconscious.
Redmond’s journalistic spirit and longing for some knowledge about his past sends him from his Dublin home to his mountain birthplace of Slievenageeha, where he speaks with Ned Strange, a local storyteller and fiddle player. The story takes a turn when Ned is convicted of paedophilia and hangs himself in prison. Redmond finds himself obsessing about the disgraceful nature of Ned’s crime, as well as the time they once spent together in the mountains. And, as is true of McCabe’s characters, Redmond becomes unstable and even reinvents himself. He divorces his first wife and marries another, starts a new career, and takes a new name.
An important element in the story is the dichotomy of mountain life, or what could be called traditional Irish life, and that of life in Dublin. Redmond Hatch’s former mountain home of Slievenageeha is portrayed by everyone other than himself and Ned Strange as a backward town. Ned paints a romantic picture of the mountains and gives a lesson on traditional values and local history through his songs and stories, and through the ceilidh tradition. Dublin, on the other hand, is portrayed as an expensive, overpopulated place, and Redmond refers to the Temple Bar area as:

The epicentre of Dublin’s hedonistic empire, a playground exclusively populated by louche adolescent Euro-ramblers and indigenous chemical-filled youths vertiginously wading in the currents of an ever-expanding opalescent ocean, shorn of history and oblivious of religion.

This is a hostile view of modern day Dublin, to say the least. Whether McCabe is making a personal commentary of Dublin life of the early nineties, or trying to give a glimpse into the hostile and introverted nature of his main character, it is difficult to tell. This view does seem to suggest, however, that Dublin is not the prosperous center of wealth and steady work that it seems. Redmond is unable to keep steady work in the city, can barely make the rent with his income and that of his wife, and his mind always seems to return to the stories of Ned Strange and of his former home in the mountains.

After finishing the novel, I go with a few people in the group to Penney's, which is packed full of woman of just about every age, climbing over one another to get cheap clothing. Needless to say, it is pretty frightening, and I won't be going back into Penney's in the near future. I buy a dozen nectarines from a woman selling fruit on the North Side for two Euro. We then go to the 2 Euro store, which is basically like the Dollar Store back in the States, where you buy a bunch of cheap stuff that you don't really need because it costs a dollar.

27 June 2007

Today I skip breakfast and then meet up with Emily, Stephanie, Dan, and Ryan for our weekly meeting. We go to Waterstone's and get lattes and talk about Irish Literature and why so many people drown in the sea. In Ken Bruen's novel, The Sea, this is the case, and I talk about how in Irish Drama we read several plays in which people commit suicide by walking into the sea and drowning themselves. For class I am reading:

The Teenage Dirtbag Years: Ross O'Carroll-Kelly by Paul Howard

The Ross O'Carroll-Kelly books are really funny. Paul Howard has a great sense of humor about the things he writes about. Though he is the protagonist of The Teenage Dirt-bag Years, Ross O’Carroll-Kelly is the embodiment of everything that is wrong with Celtic Tiger Ireland. He, along with his family and friends, exemplify the worst kind monied people. They are Dublin southsiders (not that they’d admit to there being life north of the Liffey), they are newly affluent, they are snobs, and they love their rugby. The complete extremes present in the novel create a parody of Dublin life during the Celtic Tiger. The class fortunate enough to be effected by the economic boom, those with the excess wealth, are throwing their money away on designer bags and flashy cell phones with the text messaging function, and at the same time they are criticising and taking advantage of those that have not been affected by the boom. There is a benefit to reading the novel while actually in Dublin. Having been to both the north and south sides of the Liffey, as strange as it seems, you can see a definite class line drawn between the two sides. The south has Chanel and Planet Hollywood and the north has…well, it doesn’t matter because Ross wouldn’t shop there anyway. Being able to walk aroud Dublin makes this novel much more enjoyable than it would be if I had never seen and experienced the things Howard addresses.

The Rooms by Declan Lynch


Winterwood by Patrick McCabe


A Star Called Henry by Roddy Doyle

06 August 2007

26 June 2007

Today we get a lecture from Dr. Sarah Keating on modern Irish drama. Before our lecture, a group of us go to the tourist office to get information about a trip to Galway. We book a hostel. Our plan is to meet Dan and Stephanie in Derry, but we haven't worked everything out yet. Suzie and I go to the Queen of Tarts which is excellent, and by far one of my favorite places in Dublin. We walk back to campus and Sarah Keating's lecture is interesting, but I feel like most of the class isn't really interested in the lecture. Most of the class hasn't been exposed to Irish Drama, and doesn't really seem to grasp a lot of the things she is talking to us about. She then shoes the class a clip of a Chinese version of "Playboy of the Western World" which, though potentially interesting, doesn't make sense to a bunch of people who haven't read the play in the first place. She talks about how she thinks Yeats is a terrible dramatist, and has some really interesting things to say about modern Irish drama and why there are so few modern Irish women playwrights.
We go to Collins Barracks which has an interesting exhibit on the Easter Rising. At this point, I feel like I know more about Irish history than I do about American history. It's getting close to the end of the trip though, and I feel like I can't fit any more information about the Easter Rising into my head. There is a high cross exhibit which consists of plaster casts of some of the important high crosses of Ireland, some of which we have seen in person.
We go to a coffee shop and I think about how metropolitan Dublin is, and how no one really realizes what they city is like until they actually see it. There are portraits of Joyce and Leopold Bloom that are being sold for three hundred Euro. We take the Luas back to Trinity and I realize that there are a huge amount of young homeless in Dublin.

25 June 2007

We go on a day trip to Glendalough. Ride the bus into the mountains in County Wicklow at about 8:30. We get there and take a walk around the museum and watch a film about the monastic site there and head out on our own onto the trails. I walk on my own past the upper lake and it is starting to get really cold and windy so I decide to turn around and head back to find the rest of the group because I have no idea what time it is. The view is excellent and the cemetery near the monastic ruins is very cool. I think about St. Kevin and can see why this site was chosen for a place of religious worship, solitude, and private reflection.

21 June 2007

Stephanie, Suzie, and I have been looking for a book of Pat Boran's poetry since he came to speak to us, and have not been able to find anything. I go to Hodges Figgis and spend entirely too much money on books. Stephanie, Dan, and I go to the National Museum to see the bog people exhibit which is really gross, but somehow, really fascinating. We walk around the rest of the museum but the bog people is the most interesting exhibit and we head back to campus.