I’m just getting back to Trinity from the group trip to Sligo. We leave Thursday morning and stop in Boyle, in County Roscommon, where we see Boyle Abbey. When we all split up for lunch in a small diner in town, we get some strange looks, but we keep fairly quiet and the strangeness dies down. Another three groups soon show up, however, and overtake the diner with noise. Most of the locals promptly leave, and as I sit there, embarrassed, I realize that this is the first time I really feel like a tourist.
When we arrive in Sligo Town we stay at Yeats Village, where I’m rooming with Stephanie, Dan, Matt, and Tasha. We’re allowed to walk around town before the group dinner. We find a bookshop (our first of many during the month) and a record store, but the selection is a bit disappointing, so I leave empty-handed. I buy some postcards in the shop downstairs, and continue to wander around town. We find the statue of W.B. Yeats, which, until this point, I do not even know is in Sligo, and take photos of Matt sitting on Dan’s shoulders (which I appropriately name “The Wanks at the Bank”). We find a pub called Harry’s, which is filled mostly with old men, but we find that we like it very much. It is quiet and very different from everywhere I’ve been in Dublin thus far. It is excellent being able to talk to Irish people, and everyone there is very friendly and welcoming. We nearly get lost trying to find the restaurant for the group dinner, but eventually make it. At some point during the dinner, Dan decides we should have a Yeats séance, but at the end of the night the idea falls through.
We spend the rest of the night at Harry’s where we meet a man called Johnnie, who we can’t understand and who insists upon singing to us, and playing air guitar over and over again. The only words out of his mouth that make any sense to us are “Nebraska” and “I’m retired.” At the end of the night Dan and Matt recite poems from the Yeats reader and we all head to bed. The next day we visit Drumcliffe Cemetery where Yeats is buried. Being able to visit Yeats’s grave under Ben Bulben gives his poetry a new meaning. It is one thing to read those famous words:
“Cast a cold Eye
On Life, on Death
Horseman pass by”But it is quite another to actually see the headstone at Drumcliffe and read Yeats’s epitaph there. His epitaph is taken from the last lines of "Under Ben Bulben", one of his final poems.
We then head to
Lissadell House, which was the childhood home of Constance Markiewicz and Eva Gore-Booth, along with their siblings and family. A family friend of the Gore-Booth’s, Yeats wrote about Eva and Constance and their Georgian mansion (Lissadell House) in his poem, “In Memory of Eva Gore-Booth and Con Markiewicz.”
The light of evening, Lissadell,
Great windows open to the south,
Two girls in silk kimonos, both
Beautiful, one a gazelle.
[...]
Many a time I think to seek
One or the other out and speak
Of that old Georgian mansion, mix
Pictures of the mind, recall
That table and the talk of youth,
Two girls in silk kimonos, both
Beautiful, one a gazelle.
[...]
The grounds of the mansion are very impressive, as is the house, and there is a large garden as well as an exhibit of artifacts from the lives of both Constance Markiewicz and Eva Gore-Booth.
When we return to Yeats Village we eat at a chipper in town, and meet up at Harry's. The next day we go to
Carrowmore Cemetery and see megalithic graves. We walk around the fields in the rain all day but get to see some very cool things and I am impressed how well the monuments are being preserved. We stop at a holy well, which is amazing and very peaceful and beautiful. This is probably one of my favorite places that we've been to thus far. We then go to Dooney Rock and see the Lake Isle of Innisfree where Yeats spent his time, and I hike through the woods on my own and climb to the top of the hill to take pictures.
"The Lake Isle of Innisfree"
I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made:
Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee,
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.
And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,
Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;
There midnight's all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,
And evening's full of linnet's wings.
I will arise and go now, for always night and day
I hear the lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;
While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,
I hear it in the deep heart's core.
We go to
Parke's Castle, which overlooks Lough Gill, and get a tour there. We go to a beach in Sligo where we play football with two little boys who, basically, put us to shame. I walk around in the water and my shoes get completely soaked when the tide comes in. We go to Harry's again for our last night in Sligo, and after unsuccessfully trying to find cheap dinner we give up and go (much to my disappointment) to Abracababra. At Harry's we meet a woman called Mary who tells us that she thinks Yeats is still buried in France, next to Maude Gonne. She is rooting for Limerick in the hurling match against Tipperary that is playing on the tv. The game is a tie, and I think I might actually understand the rules by the end of the game. An older man called Paul tells us about The Left Bank and a jazz show he is playing in there, and we tell him we might show up even though we will be back in Dublin when he is playing. Mary's husband walks over to our table and apologizes to us, saying "she was very glad to talk on an intellectual level." We're not really sure why he is apologizing, and he seems a bit embarassed. We go to The Left Bank and witness a number of "hen parties" going on at once.
Our weekend in Sligo is my fondest memory of Ireland.